Patternmaking is a task of many moving parts that can be both enjoyable and sometimes stressful. Being properly prepared is very important and can save a ton of time and frustration. Whether you’re a beginner or more experience patternmaker, it is essential that you have all the necessary tools and supplies to help tackle any pattern drafting project. Below are the 18 Essential Tools & Supplies for Patternmaking.
Lets get started!
1
Pattern Paper
Pattern Paper is the most essential supply for patternmaking.
Patternmakers draft their patterns directly on pattern paper.
It is important that your pattern paper is lightweight and slightly see through enough to easily trace and transfer markings from other pieces of paper. It is also important that the pattern paper quality is durable because patterns are constantly folded and manipulated.
Traditionally patternmakers use dotted lined paper but I find it more cost efficiant to buy a roll of large format printer paper and it works just as good.
Recommended Products: 1 Roll of Alpha Numeric Dotted Marking Paper/Pattern Paper (48 inches x 10 Yards) Optimum Performance – Made in The USA
2
Machinal Pencils
Mechanical Pencils are a must have for patternmaking because of its precision sharp point.
Mechanical Pencils beat traditional lead pencils because it is important that your drafting lines are accurate, precise and smudge proof
Recommended Product: Paper Mate SharpWriter Mechanical Pencils, 0.7 mm, 2 HB, Yellow, Pack of 10
3
Colored Felt Tip Pens
After drafting of the pattern is complete and final pattern is ready to be labeled, it is common industry practice to label pattern pieces using different colors.
Self pattern pieces is marked in BLACK, Combo1 GREEN, Combo2 PURPLE, Lining BLUE and fused pattern pieces are marked in RED.
It is also useful to incorporate using color markings when applying corrections to your original pattern so the distinction is super apparent.
Recommended Product: Paper Mate Flair Felt Tip Pens, Medium Point (0.7mm), Business Colors, 6 Count
4
Paper Scissors
While patternmaking, you will be working with different weights of paper and having a great pair of Paper Scissors is essential.
Paper Scissors are used for cutting paper only and should never be used to cut fabric or any other material.
Recommended Products: Fiskars The Original Orange Handled Scissors, 8 Inch, Orange & Fiskars 175800-1002 Razor-edge Softgrip Scissors, 8 Inch, Black
5
Magic Tape (Scotch Brand)
There are many methods and techniques to developing patterns and a lot of them involves slashing and spreading through darts and design lines.
Magic Tape is great because it allows you to piece the pattern back together and is also easy to remove without tearing the paper.
Magic Tape looks frosty but goes on transparent. You are also able to make marking with pencil, pen and marker without smear or smudge. It is simply amazing!
Recommended Product: Scotch 3105 3/4″ x 300″ Scotch Magic Tape 3 Pack
6
Clear Straight Ruler
Having a Clear Straight Ruler is an essential tool in patternmaking because it is crucial when drafting patterns that lines are straight and accurate unless creating design lines and shaping curves.
It is good to have a range of different size rulers although the most important to have is 2X12 and 2X24.
These rulers are great for patternmaking because they are see through and flexible. You will be able to draft lines and also measure along trickyncurves.
Recommended Product: Westcott 8ths 12-Inch Beveled Transparent Ruler (B-70)
7
Clear Square Ruler
In patternmaking you will often need to form 90 degree corners and Clear Square Ruler is great for squaring off your corners with extreme accuracy which is key in patternmaking and sewing.
Recommended Product: Westcott 8-Inch/17cm L-Square Inch/Metric (L-808) (L-808)
8
French Curve Ruler
As you may have noticed and experienced – the human body has a ton of curves!
One of the most widely used rulers for patternmaking is the French Curve Ruler. It is great for shaping armholes and necklines along with various design lines.
You can find this ruler in clear plastic or metal. The metal ruler is definitely a staple must have for patternmakers.
Recommended Products: Fairgate 12″ Vary Form Curve Ruler 12-112 Fashion Designer’s Ruler
9
Vary Form Curve
This elongated curved ruler is also great for armholes, necklines and style lines.
It is personally my second best curve ruler that helps with many different shapes that I am trying to achieve.
Recommended Product: FAIRGATE Vary Form (French Curve Ruler) 24in Long (Model No. 12-124) Made in The U.S.A.
10
Hip Curve Ruler
As its name implies, the Hip Curve Ruler is another great elongated ruler for shaping hiplines, hemlines and lapels.
Recommended Product: FAIRGATE Curve Stick / Hip Curve 24 Inches Long (Model No 11-124) Made in the U.S.A.
11
Oak Tag
Oak Tag is a thicker but flexible cardboard quality paper. Patternmakers transfer the final paper pattern to the thicker oak tag so the pattern can be handled and traced from multiple times. These final Oak Tag patterns are called Blocks Patterns.
Oak Tag is available in sheets and rolls and could be a bit expensive or hard to find.
As an alternative, I like to double up poster board sheets and it works great!
Recommended Products: Roll Manila Pattern Paper 45″ X 10 Yards (125 Medium Weight/Thickness) Smaller Roll Same Professional Quality – Made in U.S.A
12
Pattern Notcher
A Pattern Notcher is an essential tool because it allows you to clip the edges of the block pattern at sewing points like the end of the dart legs, match points or seam allowance.
The marks made by the notcher are transferred from the block to the pattern or fabric to ensure the garment is constructed correctly.
Recommended Product: ZXUY 1 X Pattern Notcher
13
(Tailor’s) Awl
An Awl, sometimes referred to as Tailor’s Awl is a handy sharp needle point tool used to mark points on the inside of the pattern by piecing through the cardboard or paper creating a small hole.
Markings made by the awl are referred to as drill holes. Drill holes are used to indicate marking placements like dart points, pocket placements, button, buttonholes and other interior features that need to be marked on the fabric from the pattern.
Recommended Products: ZLKSKER Wooden Handle Scratch Awl for Leather Punch Hole or DIY Handmade (Gourd Awl ) -1pcs
14
Tracing Wheel
A Tracing Wheel (or Pattern Wheel) is another important tool used to transfer markings from a block onto patterns fabric.
Tracing Wheels come in two different types, Needle Point and Blunt.
Needle Point is great for tracing markings from your block patterns onto the paper pattern or fabric.
The Blunt tracing wheel is great for tracing markings from your paper pattern to paper pattern.
Recommended Product: LUNARM 2 PCS Tracing Wheel – Professional Stitch Marking Spacer, 4mm and 2mm Leather Needle Point Tracing Wheel with Wooden Handle for Arts and Leather Crafts
15
Pattern Hooks
Patternmaking takes a ton of work so protecting and storing your patterns appropriately is crucial. Pattern Hooks are used for grouping and hanging block patterns. One pattern hook can be used to hang and store a whole set of blocks or pattern.
Recommended Product: LA Linen Metal Pattern Hooks Pack of 12 Pieces
16
Pattern Punch (Rabbit Punch)
Patternmakers use a special hole punch called Pattern Punch or sometimes referred to as Rabbit Punch in order to store and hang your block patterns.
Recommended Product: Coming Soon !
17
Pattern Weights
Pattern Weights are an important tool in patternmaking because it helps hold patterns in place while being traced.
Pattern weights can also be used for holding patterns onto the fabric while you cut instead of pinning. They are especially useful for delicate fabric that would be damaged by pins or difficult knit fabrics.
Recommended Products: Universal Fabric Pattern Weight – 4lb One-Piece Cast Iron Fabric & Cloth Pattern Weights (2 Weights)
18
Muslin Fabric
Lastly, as a patternmaker, it is always a good idea to sew the shell of your garment (without lining, facings, pockets and details) to test out your pattern and make adjustments accordingly. These quick sew samples are referred to as Mock Ups.
The most widely used fabric to make mock ups is muslin.
Muslin fabric is unbleached cotton fabric that comes in many weights. You want to chose the weight of your muslin fabric based on weight of your final fabric.
Recommended Product: AK TRADING CO. Muslin Fabric/Textile Unbleached – Draping Fabric – Natural 10 Yards Medium Weight – 100% Cotton (63in. Wide)
So there are the 18 Essential Tools & Supplies for Patternmaking. I can personally testify to each and every one of these items on the list so if you have any questions please do not hesitate to leave a comment below!
